Bought Xbox360 Connectivity Kit V3 & Liteon 83850-V2 / 93450 Solderless Key...

[dogma]

...and then followed this tutorial: -----> http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/XBOX_360_Liteon_83850-V2_/_93450_Solderless_Key_Dumping

I have done everything correctly (I think).  I checked and rechecked that tutorial at least several hundred times (yes including changing resistors from 22 to 20 to 18 to 16 but for the life of me I cannot go beyond Status x 51.  I tried this with Dosflash 32 first and every time I see that status x51 message so is Jungleflasher.  What am I doing wrong?  I have done several drives before but never 93450c series though so its not like I have no idea what I am talking about but I do.  Its really driving me crazy.  Oh and I also made the v cuts.  I can provide a picture of this cut if needed.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.  My whole day was wasted which really disappointed me since I have enjoyed flashing before with minimum hassles before.

P.S. I heard Dosflash 16 bits might solve many problems...is this true?  Anyone has any tutorial on how to use Dosflash 16 with Xbox 360 Connectivity Kit V3 and Liteon 83850-V2 / 93450 Solderless Key Extractor Combo? 

Great site and great tools guys.  Thanks for your services. 

Also saying hi to you all. 

EDIT: I haven't checked my cuts with multimeter yet because I have no idea how to do it.  I have a multimeter though (standard one)...anyone knows how to use this? Thanks. Sorry for noobish question 

EDIT2: So I see no one has noticed my thread.  As I said I have the multimeter and I went ahead and read the tutorial from the company I bought it from and I did my test.  According to this picture, which was taken from this thread,: http://www.tiaowiki.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware-talk/soldering-guide-using-the-3-3v-and-gnd-clips (I am not stealing your picture...just borrowing...I hope you don't mind)



I meet all the 'SHOULD NOT HAVE' continuity except the green one.  That picture was making the soldering process but I am following no soldering one where I am making a V cut.  Should I still have to worry about the green one to be discontinue due to this V cut?  Thanks.

[Tutoromix]

Follow this step-by-step tutorial (Steps 1-15, Reading and dumping) here - http://www.tiaowiki.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware-talk/how-to-read-and-dump-key/

Most of the time Status 0x72 won't happen unless you cut traces deeper. All you have to really know is that either Point A/B is responsible for powering up the drive or allowing you to get Status 0x72. If you cut one of the traces deeper to not allow the drive to power up by itself, then the other trace must be for Status 0x72. So concentrate on cutting that one deeper.

I would just cut both deeper. Make sure you cut exactly how it was shown in the tutorial. The bottom trace can be cut fully, but not the top trace. Ensure you are cutting EXACTLY as shown (the PCB pictures are not to scale). Anyway, there is a way to easily fix the top trace if you didn't do it as shown.

[dogma]

Thanks for your reply.  I will let you know how it goes.   

[dogma]

Hi,

I have still not resolved this issue yet so I took a picture of it and hoping someone can tell me the solution to what I am doing wrong.  I marked the appropriate places to show that there are no continuity when I tested via multimeter except one place also shown.  I am attaching this file in this post so you can view it on a new windows as its .9 MB.  This is really driving me insane and I know I am doing something silly that is preventing me from retrieving the key.  Thanks once again for any replies. 

P.S. I am assuming my A area was not cut properly?  How do I resolve/fix this cut if it hasn't been cut properly?  Did I cut too deeply or cut in the wrong area? Thanks.

EDIT: I am so silly...THERE ARE CONTINUITY FROM THE BLACK LINES ON LEFT AND RIGHT OF POINT A CUT AREA AS THE PICTURE IS SHOWING.  I SEE 0.009 Ohm ON MY MULTIMETER.  THESE ARE THE ONLY TWO PLACES I SEE THEM.  THE REST OF THE BLUE AND DARK PINK LINES ARE INFINITY EXCEPT THE RED LINE AT B TO A WHICH ALSO SHOWS 0.009 Ohm AS I STATED ABOVE. SO I AM ASSUMING I NEED TO CUT MORE TO GET THE CONTINUITY COMPLETELY OUT FROM POINT A? THIS IS GETTING MORE INTERESTING THAN I THOUGHT AND I AM STARTED TO ENJOY IT AS I AM GETTING CLOSE TO SOLVING THIS AND I WILL.  THANKS FOR ANY REPLIES GUYS.  APPRECIATE IT.  ALSO I WOULD LIKE SOME POSITIVE FEEDBACK ON MY PCB BOARD AS TO IF THE CUT AT AREA A IS TOO FAR OFF THE LIGHT-GREEN AREA.  THANKS AGAIN. SORRY FOR MY NAGGING PROBLEMS. 

[dogma]

Bump for any enlightenment ?

[darkxsky86]

Im pretty much stuck in the same boat as you. I cant for the life of me end the continuity on the green lines. I cut the traces like crazy and it looks so much worse than the pics in the guide but it still has continuity. I've wasted almost 7 hours today trying to get this damn thing to read but i still cant. At this point i dont even care if the traces are so damaged that their unrepairable, all i want is the key cuz i got 4 other dvd drives laying around which i can flash to. Gonna call it a day and try again tomorrow, so if anyone can help us out itd be much appreciated.

[dogma]

Hi can I see your PCB board?  I would like to compare mine with yours.  I made my cuts little bit deeper than the picture I provided but to no avail.  Its always always status x 051 with DosFlash and Jungleflasher x0FF or something like that without showing my driver.  *sigh*

EDIT: Also I am thinking to repair my A cut trace via solder and then try to make two cut, one on left and one on right of the A region of the board and then use the pins again...any thoughts on it? Anyone?

I am thinking to use this rough guide that this guy provided here: http://www.tiaowiki.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware-talk/soldering-guide-using-the-3-3v-and-gnd-clips

[darkxsky86]

Wish i could but i cant get my camera phone to focus, so its just a giant blurry blob of an image. Anyways what i can tell u is that i went farther than what was said to be done in the tut but it still has continuity. I even made additional cuts on the left and the right side of the trace goin from the link you posted and it still has cont. I really dont get what im doin wrong. Oh yeah, do you know if we're suppose to have continuity on point B?Cuz i have continuity on it...

[dogma]

There shouldn't be any on B at all.  Can you at least draw it out where the continuities are from the picture above?  I think from your points of view, if there continuity then you haven't cut the traces deep enough...My problem, I believe is that, I probably over cut the area and for that it is not even recognizing.   

I hope to God I am using the multimeter properly.  How are you using your multimeter? 

Also I am going to give this a little bit more try and then gonna solder the area and reapply my cutting traces on that particular area again.

God this is stupid...should have done soldering earlier instead of just cutting V.

[darkxsky86]

The way i use the multimeter is i set it to beep if there is a closed circuit or uncut trace, its a cheap radioshack multimeter but it works.



Well i was able to completely get rid of the continuity on the green line, but now my drive isnt even detectable anymore in dosflash. Not sure if B has anything to do with it since there is still continuity along the B circuit but ill just cut it deeper. Although im not sure why my drive is undetectable at all right now but imma try and cut B some more and see if i can get a reading.

[darkxsky86]

FINALLY!!! I was able to extract the key from the drive and flashed it to another spare liteon drive i had laying around and it worked! The problem was B wasnt deep enuff so i made it deeper and i was able to get the key using iprep. Dosflash didnt work for me as it kept on freezing everytime i tried. I had to run iprep thru a bootable usb drive and it took many many tries to get it to read.
As for the drive,i dunno if i can repair the traces since A was cut very deep but i dont really care since i had spare drives for back ups. As for the reading part, i was able to get a reading using the 22ohms resistor its just that it took a lot of trial and error to get it. Anyways, good luck to u, hope u figure it out somehow.

[dogma]

Oh very good for you.  I am going to try it out tonight and see how it plays out.  If successful, I will just solder it to fill the gaps.  If unsuccessful, I will solder the gap first and then proceed on cutting.  I wish the mod/expert would answer some of my questions though.  No idea why they aren't replying...busy perhaps.   

By the way...was your A area cut as deep and beyond the light-green as mine or yours is little bit better cut than mine? 

Also for iPREP, can you please write down what the steps you've followed.  Did you type the l-o-ers command?  How did you find your sata drive? Thanks for your replies.   

[darkxsky86]

No i didnt cut beyond the light green as that would cut into another trace. What i did was i did those v-cuts which would cut off continuity between orange and light blue lines, but the green line would still have continuity. So what i did to cut off the green line was to make 2 separate deep cuts, 1 on the left of the v cuts and another 1 to the right of it, they were straight cuts.

For the iprep, i use something called iPrep_0.12.2.1 and made my usb drive bootable. So i would boot off the usb drive during windows bootup so it would run in DOS. Then i typed LIT ********(*which stands for what you would like to name your drive which will create a folder on the usb drive)Then i proceed by following the directions which appear afterwards. BUT before it proceeded to detect the drives, i put the pogo pins on point A and B, pressed any key to cont, and it started detecting the drives, however, i had to do this part many many times before i could properly detect it. Afterwards i typed "R" for read and before i execute it i removed from point A and typed Y to proceed and it read properly, make sure your datasum isnt 0000 or else it was a bad read. O yea and i use a VT6421 PCI card to read it and make sure u disable all your drives so it makes finding your 360 drive much easier as there should be only 1 to select from the list, hope this helps

[dogma]

so your A cut was something like this: including the V  cut as the original tutorial mentioned?  if so, then didn't you have to add a jumper cable or something between those straight cuts?  I don't see how making additional two straight cuts next to the V cut would make any difference than the original tutorial.  I mean if that was the case, then why worry about the V cut? Why not simply go with straight deep cuts left and right side of area A.  Sigh*should have done my research more before making any hasty decisions.   

Thanks for your info by the way on iPrep.  I haven't tried it but when I do, I will post here. 

[darkxsky86]

I wasnt aware of any jumper cables to be used and i dont know what u mean. From the way i see it, i didnt see the point of making the V cuts as what it seemed to do was separated the middle point to the left and also to the right. However, the left side is still connected to the right side as thats why there is still contuinity. The tutorial was not clear on that so making those left and right cuts to the trace was unavoidable.

The fact that i made the V cuts super deep and it still had continuity.It was not until i made the left and right cuts to the trace which actually fully separeted the trace from the left to the right and thats when i lost continuity and it worked. So i guess the tutorial was either wrong on this part, or somehow i didnt follow it enuff, but anyways if u try making those left and right cuts it should work.

Actually if i had stumble upon that pic from wherever tut u got that from, i would've just made those left and right cuts rather than bother with the v cuts. Right now im still in the process of repairing A. I can get continuity between left and right side, however i cannot get continuity between left and middle point, as well as middle to the right point(the ones where i made those horrible deep ass V cuts. So thanks to the official tut, im kinda screwed.