Author Topic: Exploded Lite-On trace  (Read 3390 times)

gir489

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 7
Exploded Lite-On trace
« on: January 26, 2010, 06:53:45 PM »
When I applied the silver stuff to the PCB from the Lite-On solderless guide and waited for it to dry, I turned it on and it worked for a split second, then I smelled smoked and watched this glowing light coming from the PCB.

I guess the glue must have touched a grounded contact.

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/7346/img0017b.jpg

It's pretty bad and the whole trace is gone. I had to replace the drive with a 74 I had lying around.

How can I make sure this does not happen again? Someone on XBScene said to "check the traces with a multimeter." Well, the problem is I don't know what to check.

Will

  • Global Moderator
  • Newbie
  • *****
  • Posts: 43
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2010, 08:01:41 PM »
I know it is too late, but I will try to explain in a way that everyone can understand.

1: do you have a multimeter? 
if you do that's great,  if you don't, go buy one, you need it for lots of hacking activities...

2: The basic usage of the multimeter is to check resistance.  if the resistance is close to 0, which mean it is connected or in another word, short circuit.  If the resistance is infinite, which means open circuit, or in another word, if you don't connect your multimeter's red/black probe to anything, the resistance will read infinite, so it is open circuit.

3: why you smell smoke or the traces are burnt?  you have to know the Ohm's law. 
so what's Ohm's law?  it states the current flow through a conductor is determined by the voltage on the conductor and the resistance.  The mathematical way to express this is:

I = U/R

I: the current through the conductor
U: the voltage on the conductor
R: the resistance of the conductor

From this mathematical experssion, you can read that the lower resistance, the higher current.

You see the smoke or burnt because the 'conductor'  cannot bear the power on it, in electronic work, there is a mathematical formula to calculate the power:

The power law equation:

P = U*I

P:  power in watt
U: voltage in volt
I: current, in amp.

you know the Ohm's law now, let's do some calculation:

I = U/R
so
P=U*I = U * (U/R) = (U*U)/R

The lower resistance the higher power.

Now let's apply this theory to our scenario.

On most PCB, the mesh is connected to GND.  so when you rejoin the 3.3v trace, you made a tiny 'bridge' between the 3.3v trace and the mesh (GND), you effectively create a tiny 'conductor', who's resistance is very very low, for example, 0.1, 0.01 or even 0.001 Ohm.  Now the thing is, one end of the 'conductor' is connected to 3.3v trace, and the other end connect the GND, which means the voltage on this 'conductor'  is 3.3v.

So let do some calculation:
Assume the resistance of the 'conductor' is 0.1ohm, the power on it is:
P=(U*U)/R = (3.3*3.3)/0.1 = 108 Watt
if the conductor's resistance is 0.01 ohm, the power on it is: (3.3*3.3)/0.01 = 1080 Watt

My desktop light is 60W, my TV is rated 200W... so you have a scene now how big it is for this tiny 'conductor'... since the power is so high it cannot bear the energy applied on it, so it burns (or start fire), fortunately enough, when it burns, the tiny bridge between 3.3v and GND is damaged, it no longer connects the 3.3V with the GND... so the resistance increases from 0.1 or 0.001 to  an infinite number, and it's open circuit again....

Now, if you have a multimeter, you should know what to do now...

Make sure the silver glue does NOT touch anything else other than the trace you are fixing!  Use the multimete to check the resistance between the trace you are fixing and the traces/mesh surround it, they should NOT read 0!

Let me know if this makes sense.
 
 
When I applied the silver stuff to the PCB from the Lite-On solderless guide and waited for it to dry, I turned it on and it worked for a split second, then I smelled smoked and watched this glowing light coming from the PCB.

I guess the glue must have touched a grounded contact.

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/7346/img0017b.jpg

It's pretty bad and the whole trace is gone. I had to replace the drive with a 74 I had lying around.

How can I make sure this does not happen again? Someone on XBScene said to "check the traces with a multimeter." Well, the problem is I don't know what to check.
« Last Edit: January 26, 2010, 08:25:17 PM by Will »

gir489

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 7
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2010, 08:26:26 PM »
OK, so where do I place the probes from the multimeter? Each side of the cut?

Will

  • Global Moderator
  • Newbie
  • *****
  • Posts: 43
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2010, 09:15:18 PM »
OK, so where do I place the probes from the multimeter? Each side of the cut?

yes all surrounding area.


Will

  • Global Moderator
  • Newbie
  • *****
  • Posts: 43
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2010, 09:16:11 PM »
OK, so where do I place the probes from the multimeter? Each side of the cut?

BTW, if you already have the key, then you do not need to cut the trace anymore.


xfreaks

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 14
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2010, 09:48:37 PM »
OK, so where do I place the probes from the multimeter? Each side of the cut?

yes all surrounding area.

it will be appreciate if you have sample pic/photo of this where we need to put the multimeter probe?
thanks

Will

  • Global Moderator
  • Newbie
  • *****
  • Posts: 43
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2010, 07:00:09 AM »
ok, I will post it in a day or two.

Thanks

OK, so where do I place the probes from the multimeter? Each side of the cut?

yes all surrounding area.

it will be appreciate if you have sample pic/photo of this where we need to put the multimeter probe?
thanks

eRJee

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 2
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2010, 12:47:47 PM »
Thank you very much for your explanation, Will.

One question keeps bothering me:
What would be an acceptible resistance for the power on the PCB in the DVD-drives?? Somewhere between 0.1 and 1?

Much appreciated!

MOCAMBO

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 2
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #8 on: February 02, 2010, 09:40:38 PM »
Will you still need to post the pic!!!

fabzster

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 4
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2010, 01:11:42 AM »
Hi

I managed to lose my conductive silver (Long Story)
I have access to the following:

I have access to the following:

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6654842

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6654849

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3217295

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0496243

Which ones could i use instead?

I would really appreciate the assistance as I live in South Africa and it takes over 2 weeks fo anything fromDIYGADGET to get here. I also noticed that the silver paint is really runny

Mell_man

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 7
« Last Edit: February 03, 2010, 10:18:15 PM by Mike »

Mike

  • Administrator
  • Sr. Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 263
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2010, 10:15:59 PM »
Will you still need to post the pic!!!

sorry, here you go:

Black arrow: black probe of your multimeter
Red arrow: red probe of your multimeter

Since you have 2 joints, if you removed the paint next to the traces you have cut then you have high risk of short circuit.  so keep black probe at the joint point and move the red probe around and should NOT be zero resistance.


Mike

  • Administrator
  • Sr. Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 263
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #12 on: February 03, 2010, 10:16:56 PM »
This should be ok too.  However do you have access to a solder iron, that is the most reliable way.

Hi

I managed to lose my conductive silver (Long Story)
I have access to the following:

I have access to the following:

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6654842

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6654849

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3217295

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0496243

Which ones could i use instead?

I would really appreciate the assistance as I live in South Africa and it takes over 2 weeks fo anything fromDIYGADGET to get here. I also noticed that the silver paint is really runny

fabzster

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 4
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #13 on: February 04, 2010, 12:38:05 AM »
Thanks for the reply

I do have access but my soldering skills are pretty sucky... I have been trying on a test board.
What is the best method for soldering on this type of circuit board?

I have seen videos but none show you how to join a track on the motherboard....

I add solder to the iron
I heat the one side of the track
then try to get the solder on the track (This is what I cannot get right)

Maybe someone could point me in the right direction or explain to me what the correct way is

This should be ok too.  However do you have access to a solder iron, that is the most reliable way.

Hi

I managed to lose my conductive silver (Long Story)
I have access to the following:

I have access to the following:

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6654842

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6654849

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3217295

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0496243

Which ones could i use instead?

I would really appreciate the assistance as I live in South Africa and it takes over 2 weeks fo anything fromDIYGADGET to get here. I also noticed that the silver paint is really runny

Will

  • Global Moderator
  • Newbie
  • *****
  • Posts: 43
Re: Exploded Lite-On trace
« Reply #14 on: February 04, 2010, 07:37:12 AM »
OK, this is what I usually do:

1: sand the traces you want to join, make sure it is CLEAN.  any dirt on it will make things worse.
2: make sure the solder iron tip is very small, if not, sand it to make it very small
3: use your finger tip to apply some solder paste on the cleaned traces.
4: then clean the tip of your solder iron and dip some solder paste on it and then apply little bit of solder on the tip as well.
5: then put your solder iron tip over the cleaned trace with solder paste on, you will see the solder is no over the trace
6: if the gap between is big, and you cannot simply join them with solder, then
7: clean the leg of the resistor, dip it with some solder paste, then put your solder iron on it, you will see the leg is no covered by a layer of the solder.
8: cut 1.5 mm of the leg of the resistor, put it over the gap of the trace,  use a tweezers to hold it and carefully solder it over the leg.
9: visually check and use a multimeter to check as well.

Always, try it on a different pcb board first.  once you feel comfortable then do it on your liteon.


Thanks for the reply

I do have access but my soldering skills are pretty sucky... I have been trying on a test board.
What is the best method for soldering on this type of circuit board?

I have seen videos but none show you how to join a track on the motherboard....

I add solder to the iron
I heat the one side of the track
then try to get the solder on the track (This is what I cannot get right)

Maybe someone could point me in the right direction or explain to me what the correct way is

This should be ok too.  However do you have access to a solder iron, that is the most reliable way.

Hi

I managed to lose my conductive silver (Long Story)
I have access to the following:

I have access to the following:

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6654842

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=6654849

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3217295

http://za.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0496243

Which ones could i use instead?

I would really appreciate the assistance as I live in South Africa and it takes over 2 weeks fo anything fromDIYGADGET to get here. I also noticed that the silver paint is really runny